Originally, this article was going to be about the history of Scotch Whisky in general. But so many learned books have been written on that subject that it would have been near impossible to find anything new to say. So, we decided instead to focus on just one Victorian whisky brand which, for reasons that will become clear, is dear to our hearts at Skene Scotch Whisky.
- The Cock Tavern in Fulham
The Cock Tavern can be found at 360 North End Road, Fulham, London. It is a pub with a very long and proud history. It was first licensed in 1713, rebuilt in 1813, and rebuilt again in 1895. By 2007, it was known as The Cock and Hen and it was renamed as Cock Tavern in 2015. It has also randomly been called the Cock Tavern or Cock Hotel since 1911. For a long period in the Nineteenth century, it was run by various members of the Agar family.
- Victorian drinks menu
So, what was the Cock Tavern serving to customers back when the Agar family ran it in Victorian times? Well, amazingly, we do actually know, because we unearthed an advert, placed by Charles Agar, Proprietor, in the 1893 Christmas Supplement to the West London Observer. Amongst others, drinks on offer included: Brandy; Champagne Brandy; Brown or Pale Ale; Rum; Gin; Sherry; Port; Claret; Bottled Beers; Stout; Vintage Champagne; Irish Whiskey and Scotch Whisky. A fine selection!
Certain whiskies were even available by the case for just 42 Shillings (£2.10 in today’s money). As can be seen from the extract from the advert below, these whiskies included one called “Skene Dhu”. This brand name was a reference to the small twin-edged Scottish dagger historically carried in a Scotsman’s hose or long boot. However, the “Skene Dhu” spelling used is unique, being different from the more now more common ‘sgian-dubh’ or ‘skean dhu’.
- “Skene Dhu” Whisky – Bottle label patent
In 1905, just over a decade after Charles Agar’s advert, a “Skene Dhu” whisky label was patented by Alexander Ferguson & Co. At the time, this company was a a very big player in the Scotch whisky industry, shipping then famous brands all over the world. Indeed, it was Alex Ferguson & Co who first patented the still famous “Claymore” blended whisky.
A part copy of the 1905 “Skene Dhu” label patent application is below. The ‘signature’ is in the handwriting of none other than Sir James Calder, who was a then a whisky ‘A-lister’. He was involved with Alexander Macdonald, Stronachie Distillery and Ainslie & Helibron. All are lost to us now, but were huge names in past times.
The original “Skene Dhu” label patent was re-discovered recently. Andrew Skene, who is interested in whisky history, was looking through books of old label designs in the Patent Office and was stunned to find one bearing his surname. As luck would have it, the original “Skene Dhu” label patent had time-expired. So, Andrew was able to take out a fresh patent in his name and now owns the original design.
- Skene Scotch Whisky Ltd
Andrew Skene owns Skene Scotch Whisky, which is an independent whisky company. In recent years, the firm has concentrated on buying and selling casks in bond. However, in Autumn 2020, they once again started bottling whisky under their own labels. It is early days, with stock currently being either wholesaled to Far Eastern distributors or retailed to UK drinkers through Skene Scotch Whisky’s own website and a select handful of whisky shops.
- “Skene Dhu” retro label bottling
The most exciting project which Skene Scotch Whisky has been working on is a ‘retro-bottling’ bearing a “Skene Dhu” label based on the original 1905 design.
We have set aside a Linkwood 14 year single malt whisky for this bottling, which has been matured in European ex-sherry oak. Linkwood has been chosen because Andrew Skene’s ancestors lived in “Burnside of Linkwood”, where they were coopers.
Given the massive interest in whisky heritage and in older, sherried single malt whisky, this retro “Skene Dhu” bottling is likely to be highly sought after by drinkers, collectors and gifters alike. So, be sure not to miss out, by visiting Skene’s website shop regularly!
And who knows, Skene Scotch Whisky might even persuade the Cock Tavern to once again have “Skene Dhu” whisky on its menu.
